It's bound to happen, eventually you will break down on the trail, either during an event or when your enjoying yourself. The scary fact is many riders don't have experience or know how to repair their bike well enough to help get them back to the car safely.

First the basics
      The best way to avoid breaking down while out and about is to do some preventative maintenance Routine cleaning, adjusting, and checking is essential to your trail riding enjoyment. Before or after each ride you should inspect the components for tightness and lightly clean moving parts (unless you've been out in the mud...then clean heavily!). Remember when maintaining your bike DO NOT use WD-40!...While it is a great general lubricant for most items, it attracts too much dirt and dust to be useful on your bike. Dirty parts wear faster than usual and function less efficiently. Purchase a chain cleaning system and a good lubricant such as "White Lightning" or "Pedro's". Also get the right tools for the job, avoid using a can opener as a screwdriver and hammer combination tool. This goes for tools in the house and on the trail. Proper tools will make the repairs and maintenance a breeze, and keep you from breaking other parts. With this said you should also know your bike...what type of components, how many gears, size tires, etc. Below is a small anatomy lesson:

• Frame- This is the main part of the bike, made of steel, alloy or other space age materials. The frame is the most important aspect of each bike. The geometry and material determine how a bike will ride and handle. Sizing your bike frame is as important as keeping the parts in good working order.
• Front Derailleur- The front derailleur is the component that shifts your chain from chainring to chainring. It moves from side to side as you click your front shift lever, moving the chain along with it, and changing gears.
• Rear Derailleur- The rear derailleur is the component that shifts your chain from cog to cog on the rear wheel. Moving from side to side as you click your rear shift lever, moving the chain into the correct rear gear (or cog. Rear derailleurs also act as a chain tensioner. Taking out additional chain slack that comes from shifting.
• Headset- Your headset is a system made up of 2 sets of ball bearings (top and bottom). located just above and below your frame's head tube. These bearings allow you to freely turn the steering system. The headset also holds the steering system together.
• Steering System- The steering system is the group of components that allows you to control(steer) the bike. It is comprised of handlebars, stem, and fork. Handlebars are the straight or curved metal tube, which hand grips, brake levers and shifters are mounted to. The stem is the small angled, metal tube that connects the handlebars to the fork. The fork contacts the front wheel.
• Quick-Releases- Quick-releases (QR) are simple cam/lever devices that provide quick, easy-to-adjust attachments between your wheels and frame drop outs, and occasionally the seat tube. Quick-releases hold the wheels and seatpost securely to the bike. They also allow for quick adjustments and easy removal of the wheels (NOTE: Not all bicycles use quick-releases).
• Rims and Spokes- Rims are the circular, metal frames on which your tires are mounted. Spokes are the thin metal supports that form each wheel's structure which allow you to adjust and maintain true wheels.

Below are some typical repairs problems you may encounter while out on the trail, these repair techniques can help you get back to your car...when it is miles away. Feel free to download and print the pamphlet below which can be folded in half and take with you (in your back pack, bag, or camelbak).

Download the FREE pamphlet. The printable version is set up to be folded in half already. Just print, fold, and use. Get it Here (4 pages, size = 192 kb)

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PROBLEM - FLAT TIRE Problem: The most under appreciated skill by cyclist...how to repair a flat tire while on the trail. This is the most common problem while riding yet the majority of rider do not have a clue how to repair a flat. Preventive steps: not much you can really do about this, other than avoid riding over broken glass and sharp rocks. Best thing you can do is maintain proper air pressure.
Tools Needed: Tire levers, Spare Tube(s) (or repair kit), Air pump.
Solution: These are easy to fix really, first you must remove the wheel assembly from the bike entirely. To do this undo the brakes and wheel quick release (open position). Then using at least 2 tire levers, roll the tire and get both levers under one side of the tire (bead of the tire, where it meets the rim). The levers should be about 3-4 inches apart to start, if you place them farther you run the risk of breaking the tire lever. The tire lever should have a "Hook on the end as well, this is for holding the tire lever in place once started. Place the hook around a spoke and it will not move. Us e the other leer to continue removing the tire bead (one side of the tire). Just FYI, some tires take more effort to get remove than others. Once you have one side of the tire off, pull the old tube out (fold and pack it out), check the inside and outside of the tire surface for thorns or foreign objects. Looking for the source of the flat. After the tire is clean of debris and sharp objects, blow a small amount of air into the new tube. Place valve in the whole of the rim, and begin putting the tube back into the tire all the way around. Begin replacing the tire by rolling the bead back onto the tire, towards the end of this you may need the tire levers again to finish resetting the tire. Once the tire is on, add a little more air (enough that you can still pinch through), and roll the tire back side to side across the rim. This will help set the bead and avoid "Pinch Flats" later on. Continue filling the tire, replace the wheel, redo the quick release and brakes.
Optional: I personally have never had a patch that worked well, for this reason I do no recommend trying to patch the tube on the trail. However; If you would prefer a patch kit the same procedure applies, but instead of replacing the tube, remove the tube and repair it via instructions from the patch kit.

PROBLEM - BROKEN CHAIN: Your chain breaks on you while your ten miles from the car or the nearest bike shop......
Preventive steps: Check your chain periodically for tight links, twisted links, and most important of them all keep your chain oiled. Do this by rotating your cranks backward, if the chain has bad or stiff links they will catch and show up. Chains should be replaced every forty to fifty hours of off road riding (depending on conditions). If you have a Shimano chain you will require a special "Shimano chain pin" (number of gears makes a difference too). It is the only pin that will work with a Shimano chain.
Tools: a chain breaker tool, special pin(2), additional links.
Solution one: Using your chain breaker tool push the damaged pin out and reconnect your chain at the next sound link. Shortening the chain might make it difficult to use all the gears. Ideally carry a small section of chain (about 4 links) for longer events or rides.

• Shimano Chains: Locate the bad link on the chain or section where the chain is broken. Remove bad links by using your chain breaker tool to push the pin out completely. Replace the links with additional section you have brought with you. Add the same number of links as you removed...no more no less! Place the special Shimano pin in from the outside of the chain, it will slide in halfway. Use your chain breaker tool to push it in the rest of the way until you see the notch come out the other side. Make sure not to push too far either, because this pin will not go in reverse. Once the pin is set, use pliers or other tool to snap off the excess pin. Once the chain is back together give a gentle but firm twist of the chain (side to side) at the new pin(s). Make sure section of link where the pin was fixed bends fully up and down.
• Other Chains: Locate the bad link on the chain or section where the chain is broken. Using the chain breaker tool push the pin out till it almost comes loose. When the pin is almost out twist the chain sideways to separate and remove the bad links (pin remains attached to good portion of chain). Get the replacement links from your and replace the section of lost links. Put the joining links together in the chain tool and push the pin back into the chain. Once the chain is back together give a gentle but firm twist of the chain (side to side) at the pins(s) you moved. Make sure section of link where the pin was fixed bends fully up and down.
  
  Solution two(temp): If you don't have a chain tool, you will have to be creative and primitive. Look for a fist-sized rock. Using the rock and a small tool (pliers) try to place the back side of the loose link onto a similar sized rock then pound the pin in with the rock in your hand, if this works be very gentle riding back to your car. Replace the chain before riding again.! If the rock is not working for you all is not lost, a very temporary relief is to use some wire and thread the 2 links back together.

PROBLEM - BROKEN DERAILLEUR CABLE (also brake cable application) Cables grow old pretty fast, from clamping and re-clamping, and can snap without much warning.
Preventive steps: Check front and rear derailleur cables for frayed ends, rusted sections, and worn spots in the housing or crimping at the derailleurs. Replace worn out cables before your next ride or event.
Tools: Set of Allen wrenches, Screwdriver (small for derailleur adjustment).
Solution one: If your derailleur cable breaks while you are on the trail, you have 2 options for repair. The first is simply replace the cable with a spare from your pack. To do this first shift the derailleur to it's lowest possible position (make sure the shifter is in this positions as well). Remove the old cable completely (keep track of cable housing locations), thread the new cable into the shifter (remember the shifter should be in the derailleurs lowest possible location). Feed the cable through the housing all the way to the derailleur. Adjust the barrel adjusters (in the rear) back to original position (all eh way in), then turn it out 2 full turns. Pull the cable snug through making sure all the slack is out of the cable. Attach the cable to the derailleur via the clamping bolt. Now that is attached try out to... most likely it will not be working perfect, you will need to finesse the barrel adjuster (rear) either in or out to adjust the fine tune the adjustment. Turning the barrel in (clockwise) will loosen the cable, do the opposite if eh cable is too loose.
Solution two: The fixed gear method. Start by putting your chain in a desired gear that fits the terrain you are riding and screw the high/low adjustment screws until the chain and derailleur are lined up with that particular cog. You are essentially locking your bike into a single rear gear.

PROBLEM - SEVERELY BENT WHEEL (TaCo): This usually happens when a lot of force or weight is directed to the wheel or is hit hard on a foreign object, like a big rock or tree.
Preventive steps: Check spokes for even tension by grabbing and pinching two together at a time, doing this throughout the wheel on both sides.
Tools Needed: Spoke wrench, spare spokes, Tree or Post.
Solution one: A bent wheel will rub on your brake pads, your frame, your chainstays. If your wheel goes out of round you should be a able to get home by releasing the brakes. Carry a spoke wrench and use your brake pads to help you true the wheel enough get home.
Solution Two: If your wheel is bent side to side, first you are going to have to release the brake and remove the wheel from the frame. Check for broken spokes (twist them around the next good spoke). Next, place your bent wheel against a tree holding the taller bent sides, then with a few quick jolts try to bend the wheel back to "RIDABLE" shape. This process may have to be repeated a few times depending on the condition of the wheel. You want to use the tree as your pressure point and your arms and legs to put the wheel back to somewhat of a normal state. If you have a spoke wrench with you may be able to true some of the bad spots out of the rim. Remount the wheel on to your bike, you may still have to release the brakes or adjust them so the pads do not rub on the rim or tire.