Sand Rock Bouldering

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Here is a suggested equipment list for Bouldering:
Crash Pad
Plastic hold brush (wire is to rough here)
Blow hose,
Bubbabrush
Chalk Bag
Climbing shoes

Bouldering

Sand Rock is a great place for bouldering. Its many boulders range from 10- 20 feet high, which usually have a good walk down. Unfortunately many of the boulder problems are not named or rated anywhere, and for lack of a new guidebook we decided to let everyone post their problems here. Just send us your information; such as, location, route description, photo or sketch, and we will post it for everyone to see. The Deep South Climbers Companion (out of print) doesn't call out many specific boulder problems so we made our own up. We are totally aware these boulders have probably been climbed a million times before we showed up, and The information is in no way meant to step on anyone's toes. We look forward to someone helping us out with origin, rating, or names of the following problems. Please send information to trails-edge@trails-edge.com so we can give the proper credit, and documentation. With that said, The following are a few fun easy routes. We just made them up, and documented them for others to use as a reference.

Just up hill from Champagne Jam is a small overhanging boulder, near the trail. On the overhang side we did one problem "WEAK FLESHLING" and had to return on our next trip to finally get the arete "Buttercup" V1+.

WEAK FLESHLING which finishes right of center, using the large sloping bulge (on the right). This is probably only a V0+/V1-, but it has a fun combination of moves. the footholds are few and far between. The hardest part of this problem is probably overcoming the agonizing pain from the conglomerate pebbles.

BUTTERCUP (V1+) Is an interesting combination of moves. Begin the same as weak flashlings, and hard up and right to the arete. Continue up using holds on the arete! This route requires some power and technique (heel hook and lock off to complete it).

Below John Phillips tries one of the first attempts of "BUTTERCUP" V1+

We also played around on the short boulder next to "the Shoe Box" on its south side. We have dubbed this the K Block, for reference purposes only. It is surrounded by Jaws Block, Pinnacle, and Shoe Box. We did a half dozen problems her all rated VO - V1. most of theme were short. All routes are described assuming the following designations. The side of this block facing the Jaws block We will call the front, the dark gray side nearest "the Shoebox" will be called left side. The side with the large protrusion (nearest the pinnacle) will be called the right side, and the back is the side slabby part headed down hill. We hope you enjoy these problems, send us any information regarding these routes. Again we are just giving these routes names, and descriptions in an effort to document some bouldering here. We are not trying to steal any credit.

1.)Black Flies on shit V1+
this was the longest of the problems, it is a nice traverse problem with good holds until you head up to the top. Start: at the protrusion on the right side, traverse left on huecos till about 2 feet left of the tree (behind you), Once your left hand reaches a large eye shaped bucket. Then head straight up to the top.

2.)Fart Blossom V0
This was the first one we did here, just as it was getting dark. Start: 2 feet left of the start for "Black Flies on shit" move up and left following the large horizontal slashes to the top.

3.)Soup Bowl V0
this was a fun slab, friction problem on the dark left side of the block. Start: in the middle of the face on vertical slash, Follow the sloper face just to the right to end up in the extra large soup bowl on top.

4.)Smear Tactics V0
a fun friction problem. Start: just right of "Soup Bowl" on a large underling, head straight up using the slopy face, Finnish above the walk down.

5.)One Classy Chic V0
Nice reach problem. Start same as "Soup Bowl", move around the arete, finish by moving up to the walk off.


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