WARNING: Climbing is Potentially Dangerous!

Welcome to Trail's Edge
New River Gorge climbing page.

This is a completely free page, all I ask is that you help support it by checking out the sponsors, and sending in your information or photographs.
If you are looking for equipment, or trail foods check out our ONLINE CATALOG.

We will be updating this page soon, adding more logistics and photo's. If you have any guide information, new route developments, or suggestions e-mail us.

trails-edge@trails-edge.com

Introduction
The New River Gorge is located just North of Fayetteville, WV. The amount of climbable rock is enormous. Even with the over 1,600 established routes, the area has a vast amount of untouched rock. There is yet to be a 5.14 established, with the only possible 14a being Brian Mcray's "Proper Soul" in the Cirque. The sandstone cliffs range from 30 ft - 110ft. In height, and has an abundance of overhanging, face, and slab climbs. Bouldering is still under developed here, but there are a few good areas such as Beauty Mt. and the cave at Junkyard wall.

There is an abundance of moderate and hard climbs, with a few fun 5.8's and 5.9's (Summersville, Endless Wall). You have your pick of trad, sport, bouldering or top rope. the bridge area is easiest for setting top rope anchors, as well as near the fern point rappell (Endless Wall). Access is generally through some beautiful wooded trails, with ladders for cliff access in many places.

Click HERE For current weather conditions and the five day weather forecast.

Some of the climbing is on private land so be courteous and respectful. The following is list of land ownership. This will help remove confusion of special regulations or concerns.

Army Core of Engineers: Summersville Lake

Private Land: Junkyard Wall, Bubba City

National Park Service: Ambassador, Beauty Mt., Bridge area, Domino Point, Endless Wall, Fern Buttress, Kaymoor, Sunshine Buttress


Bouldering at Beauty Mt.

Directions
Amenities

Recommended Gear: Bouldering:

  • Crash Pad
  • Plastic hold brush
  • Blow hose, attached to brush
  • Chalk Bag
  • Climbing shoes

Top Rope Anchors:

  • 30 ft., 20 ft., & 15 ft. slings
  • Regular Oval & Locking Carabiners
  • Various Cams, Nuts, and Hexxes

Lead (Sport & Trad):

  • Full Rack
  • Various sized slings
  • 2-14 Quick draws
  • 60m Rope

Season:
Generally speaking the fall and spring for the best times of year, with the most reliable weather. July is the wettest month to visit, while October gets the least rain. May through September are warm to very hot and humid. It is always a good idea to plan a bail destination. If the weather is bad in one area, plan a backup location for the trip.

Emergency:

  • Plateau Medica Center, Oak Hill
    (304)465-0561
  • Raleigh General Hospital, Beckley
    (304)469-6213
  • National Park Service
    (304)465-0508

    Emergency Only Call 911

Guidebooks:

  • New River Gorge rock climbers guidebook (2nd edition), Cater, KCP publishing
  • Sport Crags of the East, Cater, KCP publishing
  • New River Rock, Thompson (does not contain Summersville), Chockstone press


Buy this book

New River Rock
By Rick Thompson.
New River Gorge rock climbing guide, this book covers much of the New's climbing history, written by original climbers. The book details the more than 1,500 routes at the New, and provides all the necessary information to make your trip great.

$30 Each

Other Nearby Climbing
Cooper's Rock | Summersville Lake

Copyright © 1999 Trail's Edge Outdoors Inc.
All rights reserved.