Grand Ledge regulations

Grand Ledge Regulations

FITZGERALD PARK IS OFF LIMITS TO CLIMBING !

Etiquette:
The attitude at grand ledge is friendly and social, with The more experienced climbers offering their advice and encouragement to beginners. Since there is such limited climbing in Lower Michigan, Grand Ledge attracts a large crowd from late spring to early fall. With the large crowds, the procedure of sharing ropes rather than taking them down and waiting for an opening is accepted practice. The only rule for this action is to ask the owner of the rope if they mind! I have never been turned down nor have I turned anyone away. Below I have listed some general rules and conduct to make the day more enjoyable for everyone:

Mark, Dave, Jamie, and Anna size
up the direct start to "Heart and Soul"

WHEN SETTING YOUR ANCHORS PLEASE USE A BUFFER BETWEEN THE ROCK AND ANY ROPE OR WEBBING, THIS WILL PREVENT ANY FURTHER DAMAGE TO THE SOFT SAND STONE). CARPET SEEMS TO BE THE MOST POPULAR METHOD.

DON'T THROUGH ANY OBJECTS OVER THE EDGE OF THE CLIFF, AND IF YOU DO MANAGE TO KNOCK SOMETHING OVER THE EDGE YELL LOUDLY "ROCK" NO MATTER WHAT THE OBJECT IS.

ALSO USE COMMON SENSE WHEN SETTING THE ANCHORS. YELL "ROPE" LOUDLY WHEN YOU TOSS YOU ROPE DOWN. THIS WILL GIVE THE PEOPLE BELOW NOTICE TO MOVE OUT OF THE WAY.

ALWAYS ASK FIRST BEFORE CLIMBING ON SOMEONE'S ROPE.

NEVER ! NEVER ! NEVER ! STEP ON A ROPE, PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND LOOK WHERE YOU ARE WALKING !

Plea for Responsibility:

With the growing popularity of rock climbing, the concern about our impact on the environment has risen. With the pressures of an increasing climbing population comes evidence of the frailty of the cliffs. Piton scaring is evident on some climbs. Small cracks have become hand holds, such as on rocket man, and two mules.
Due to the soft rock at grand ledge all lead climbing, aid climbing, or the use of pitons has ceased. Please do not attempt any lead climbing and under NO circumstances are blots to be placed. You will only hurt your self, and possibly ruin it for the climbing Community.

The greatest impact has been due to thoughtlessness. It was not uncommon in the past to drive up to the cliff and use your car as a belay anchor. Rappelling concentrates a large Amount of activity in a small area, causing erosion. Rappelling has been Banned at Grand Ledge by city ordinance! The practice of topping out has also ceased since It also creates erosion at the tops of the cliff (especially when done by groups). We must abandon complacency and self-serving actions, and make An effort to preserve the only natural climbing area in Lower Michigan. Recently Grand Ledge climbers have become very involved in Oak Park (this is the only place to climb outdoors in lower Michigan), there are work days twice a year to help maintain the park and surroundings. A nice job has been done on the trail down towards the rail road tracks. This area can offer some delicate bouldering problems; but be careful when topping out on a boulder problem since the vegetation is fragile at the top. If at all possible down climb, or traverse. Natural erosion is a fact of life at grand ledge; however the additional strain climbing has put on the area is more apparent. Where greenery flourished, now paths abound, the tops of the cliffs are scarred from webbing and poor anchor set-ups. Some attempts have been made to solve this problem, but we need the cooperation of the climbing community. Please follow the posted regulations and suggested rules of conduct. Use common sense and remember your actions (good or bad) effect climbing at Grand Ledge.

REFRAIN FROM USING ROOTS AND SMALL TREES FOR ANCHORS.
PLEASE USE A BUFFER (CARPET FACE DOWN) UNDER YOUR WEBBING AT THE CLIFF EDGE.
USE ESTABLISHED PATHS AND BE CAREFUL OF THE VEGETATION AT THE BASE OF THE CLIMBS.
DO NOT LEAD CLIMB / PLACE BOLTS / OR AID CLIMB.
PLEASE DO NOT TOP OUT.

DO NOT RAPPEL.

CLEAN UP ANY OLD TAPE OR GARBAGE (DON'T BE SHY ABOUT PACKING OUT ANY TRASH LYING AROUND).

I LOVE DOGS, BUT NOT WHEN THEY ARE DISTURBING MY BELAYER, PLEASE MAINATAIN YOUR PET (THIS INCLUDES CLEANING UP THEIR MESS)!

Regulations:
IN 1976 THE CITY PASSED AN ORDINANCE BANNING ALL RAPPELLING AT GRAND LEDGE, DUE TO CLIMBERS NEGLIGENCE. WHILE THE ORDINANCE APPLIES TO ALL PARK USERS, THE FOLLOWING RULES ALSO APPLY AND MAY BE OF PARTICULAR INTEREST TO YOU AS CLIMBERS.

OAK PARK WILL BE OPEN FROM DAWN TO DUSK
CAMPING IS NOT ALLOWED
ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES ARE PROHIBITED
THE USE OF PITONS, BOLTS, AND CLIFFHANGERS ARE NOT ALLOWED
RAPPELLING IS BANNED (THIS INCLUDES ASCENDING)
LEAD CLIMBING IS NOT ALLOWED
ORGANIZED GROUPS ARE TO OBTAIN A PERMIT
GROUPS ARE TO BE NO MORE THAN 20 PERSONS, A DEPOSIT MAY BE REQUIRED

MOTORIZED VEHICLES ARE PROHIBITED PAST BEYOND THE PARKING LOT

SENTENCING FOR ANY VIOLATIONS MAY INCLUDE UP TO $100 FINE AND/OR 90 DAYS IN THE SLAMMER

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