Grand Ledge Bouldering

Recommended Gear:
Crash Pad, Plastic hold brush, Blow hose, Bubba brush, Chalk Bag, Climbing shoes


Grand Ledge has long been known For its abundance of top rope routes. With the growing interest in bouldering many of the old problems are being re-visited, exhausting the next generation of climbers. Please send us your information on the existing and new routes, we will be updating this page regularly. Keep in mind that your new route may have been done before (may have a name and rating already).

Also do not attempt the exsting top rope routes as highball boulder problems! This practice is not only unsafe, but rude! Since the top rope are is well established this will create a hazard for you and others. It is not impossible to realize a rope to be dropped while you are accending, or you could get knocked off by a swinging roped climber. The tops of teh cliff is also composed of a much softer and fragile rock. It could break at any time...not a good thing to happen at 30+ feet off the deck! The tope rope are is crowded enough! adding the wait for a free solo accent is rude.

Remember that the top of the cliff is fragile and dirty, to avoid erosion down climb or traverse if possible. ALWAYS have a spotter, the stone here can be fragile and break unexpectedly. The information below is merely for reference. We understand that many of these problems have probably been done dozens of times, but not documented. The following list is in no way meant to step on anyone's toes, our goal is to give other climbers a point of reference. If you have first accent or route information please send it to us.


3 Mules area:
Follow the trail from the parking lot to the left past the port-a-johns, down the stairs. The first face you will see is the 3 mules wall. Named after the painting which used to grace it. Here you will find several problems.
called simply as Boulder Problem # (i.e. BP#1)
B1.) BP #1 V2+:
A strenuous thin problem. Start just right of teh line of large pockets. Climb up the short blank face to better holds near the top.

* Variation BP #1: V2+:
A fun traverse with terrible foot holds (tiny and smooth), Start: Locate the obvious vertical hand crack at the right end of this face. Use this as your starting hold and begin traversing the tiny holds to the left, avoiding the top. After about 12 ft or so head up and finish.



Mike on B2 (BP#2 Direct variation

B2.) BP #2 V0-:
A nice highball problem, good holds all the way to the top. locate the ledge system on this wall as it meets the base of the rock. Start just right of this ledge, using it to obtain the pockets up and left, move right to the large pocket, continue following the pockets to the top.

* Variation BP #2: V0+
A nice highball problem, good holds all the way to the top. Try the variation start for added difficulty. Click Here to
see a video (888KB)

B3.) Wheaties V7:
Jsut around the corner about 15 or so feet past the arete is a blank face. Crimp you way up extremely tiny edges.
FA: John Marshal - 2/18/02


Boulder Pile Area:
Follow the base trail until you happen upon the mass of boulders (boulder pile) away from the cliff. These boulders fell here during a spring thaw in the 1920's. a few short (very short) problems exist here, they also provide the main bleachers for spectators.
B4.) Underknome: V0-
Very Short and easy problem, begin under the boulders just down hill from the natural spring. facing the river climb back towards the cliff face. Top out on the boulders by jamming the crack system or mantle.

B5.) Sloper Mantle: V1+
Terrible slopers to begin your short journey to the nose of this little boulder. Get you hands one on each side of the top and mantle finish. There are really no foot holds here, so you will need a lot of upper body strength.

Try to continue down the right side of this boulder for an additional pump (see light blue lines in image)

B6.) Traverse: V0-
Start at the corner (arete) nearest Rocketman, head towards the pedestal to the right (beginners climb). Fun small crimpy holds with a long reach to finish at the pedestal.

Doug's Area:
The next set of problmes is located near or under the popular top rope route "Doug's Roof". This section is just past the boulder pile and has a prominant roof 15 feet up, with a lower roof near the ground.
B7.) Climb Or Die V7
Start the same as the top rope route "Intimidator" using the starting block, traverses right ending on a large flake

B8.) The Suicide Machine V9/V10

Start just to the right of the climb Ballerina on a crimper and a sloper. Traverse right under the low roof to "Dougs Roof" and hop off.

Dark Arete Area:
Follow the trail along the cliff until you are a few hundred feet from the railroad tracks.
The dark face to the right contains a fun & easy traverse that heads up hill from the arete. As with many Grand Ledge climbs there are many variations to the start. Beware of the crappy landing, with sloping ground and a few large ankle twisters to contend with...but the hand holds are large.
Click an image to enlarge

The light colored rock to the left of the arete has a few fun traverse problems. I personally like to start at the arete head up a few feet and then left to the large gap in the rock, Then head back on the lower portion of the rock to finishing back at the arete.

B9.) Saving Grace V1+
Just beyond the top rope area, locate the carving "HARVE GRACE 8/5/27" on a bulging dihedral. Start on the wall just right of the dihedral, climb left along bulge about half way up it. Once you get a little more than halfway around the bulge, move up on slopey holds to top out.

B10.) Slag Traverse V2

about 30 feet left of the previous roue locate a slightly overhanging short black face (about 4-5ft tall). Start on teh left of this face where the wall heads down to the ground. Climb hp and right past the small tree and onto the black face, using the

B11.) Dark Wall Traverse V1-
A fun problem, the beginning is the hardest part, with easier climbing above. Start at the base of the arete under the small roof. Go up following the arete for about 6 feet, then head left slightly and to the top, then downclimb.




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