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Route
Descriptions:
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Sunset
Wall Routes
1.)
Sunset Overhang 5.8 (40ft.)
The left-most climb on the wall and one of four ways out the roof band.
Follow the black streak up the face to the 2ft diagonal hand crack out
the roof. This climb is leadable, but is runout in the middle.
2.) Wide
Point Roof 5.9+ / 5.10- (40ft.)
Climb a difficult face left of the cannonball hole up to the roof, 5'
to the right of "Sunset Overhang" roof-crack. Somehow surmount
the strenuous ceiling to finish.
3.) Reachy
5.8+ (40ft.)
Climb the thin, reachy face up through a difficult bulge, surmount the
roof via an easier diagonal crack.
4.) The
Arch 5.6(35ft.)
One of the most popular climbs at Sunset. To start, Layback the obvious
left-leaning flake (near the center of the wall). Near the top of the
flake, step right onto the face and head straight up to a crack at the
top.
* Arch Variation 5.7 (35ft.)
Same as "the Arch, but Go up and left to the diagonal roof crack
5.) Central
Face Climb 5.5 (35ft.)
Another very popular climb at Cooper’s, START: 8' right
of "The Arch" climb the face to a stance below an organ pipe-like
formation. Head up and right, aiming for a crack near the top (near a
hemlock tree).
6.) Crimper
5.10- (35ft.)
This route starts to the right of "Central Face". A difficult
sequence of sloping holds in the middle leads to a crack at the top.
7.) Tweaker
5.10+ / 5.11- (35ft.)
START: 5 feet to the right of "Crimper". This route is a lot
like "the Crimper" but with a tougher sequence.
8.) Stop
N' Go 5.9+ (35ft.)
This is the right-most route on the wall (before the chimney gap). Climb
up to a stance below a copper colored flaky area. Cling through this part
to easier rock above. This route has 2 significant moves in the middle,
with easier climbing above and below.
9.) Unknown
5.11(30ft.)
Just right of the previous route climb the arete to the top.
10.)
The Nose 5.11? (30ft.)
Not sure about this route, but it seems that the rounded arete just right
of the chimney has been climbed.
11.) Copenhagen
5.9 (30ft.)
A few feet right of the chimney gap is a line with a 4" pocket (about
the size of a can of tobacco) halfway up. Climb the face straight up past
this round hole to the top.
12.) Stockholm
5.7 (25ft.)
START: 8' right of "Copenhagen". Go up a flake, then traverses
a few moves left before going straight up, finishing just right of the
blocks at the top edge o the cliff.
* Stockholm
Variation 5.8
START: 2 feet right of
"Copenhagen" and head straight up to the top.
13.) Hole
In The Wall 5.10+ (20ft.)
This is a fairly tough face climb. Use a round pocket and small edges
to work your way through the route to the top.
14.) Mighty
Mite 5.10- (20ft.)
A real short climb , or a hard boulder problem, with a bad landing. START:
at the very right end of the wall, Up the face and flake.
15.) The
Bottom Line 5.9 (165ft. long)
aka: Sunset Traverse The longest climb at Coopers Rock State Forest (1
full rope length). This is a boulder traverse of the whole Sunset Wall,
with several cruxes, rests (usually never more than 10' off the ground).
START: very right edge of the wall on a horn, traverse all
the way to the start of the first climb (Sunset Overhang). Keep going
around into the alcove, then take the obvious crack (or the flakes 3'
to the left) out the low ceiling and up to a big horizontal crack, continue
left, around the corner until you can step down.
16.) Pop Goes the Weasel 5.10 (30ft.)
On the wall back and to the right of Sunset Wall is a face with 2 roofs
on it, one low and one near the top. Start below the first roof, move
through it, layback the corner, then move through the roof in teh open
book.
Big Blocks Routes
Shady
Side
–
Corridor between Sunset and Big Blocks)
Shady Wall
Traverse
traverse across this wall that starting at "Freinds in High Places"
and ending on "Kern's Corner".
17.) Friends
in High Places (30ft)
This route is in the far right arete of "Big Blocks"
if you are standing in the corridor (between Sunset Wall and Big Blocks),
facing the river. Use the left face, the corner, and the crack near the
top. This route is a bit easier for the taller climbers.
18.) Wayward
Penguins 5.10 (25ft.)
Halfway up the wall, directly beneath a large hemlock there is a pistol
grip shaped pinch hold. Climb up to it, then use the flakes above it.
reach out to the small ledge on the right and mantle up.
* Penguin
Direct (Wayward Penguin Variation) - 5.10+ A more difficult
solution, go straight up on the flakes avoiding the ledge completely.
19.) Kern's
Corner 5.4 / 5.? (25ft.)
To the left of "Wayward Penguins" and "Friends In High
Places" there is an arete. Climb up the arete and trend right to
the face to the top for an easy face climb.
* Kern’s
Corner variation
Climb the to the top using
only the arete, watch for the jaggedy tooth.
20.) Another
Green World 5.11 b/c (35ft.)
20 feet left of the chimney gap between the two Big Blocks lies a 2ft.
roof about 10ft. from the ground. Pull onto the face above the roof, then
head to the top.
21.) Zig-Zag
Wanderer 5.8- (40ft.)
find the tight/slanting finger crack that leading to an alcove beneath
a large roof. Follow the crack to the alcove. Continue out the roof using
a light colored flake. Move onto the face, then up to the top (just left
of the tree).
22.) Full
Moon Afternoon 5.6 (35ft.)
Climb the face up through crescent shaped holds towards a notch at the
top (just left of the roofs).
23.) Organic
Matter 5.4 / 5.5 (40ft.)
This is the obvious flake that goes all the way to the top.
24.) Super
Alloy 5.10c (40ft.)
A nice face climbing 4' left of the"Organic Matter" flake. You
can use the same anchor point as "Organic Matter".
25.) Titanium
Digit 5.10b (40ft.)
The name is apparent near the top of this popular route. Climb directly
up the center of the face, following a vague white streak.
26.)
High Carbon 5.10b (40ft.)
Just left of the previous route climb the thin face to the top, avoiding
holds on "Titanium Digit".
27.) The
End 5.6 (30ft.)
This route goes up the nose and arete at the very far end of the "Shady
Side" of the block.
Big Blocks
Routes
Sunny Side – river side of the blocks)
White
Wall Traverse
START: on the right side of the white wall, move left across nice white
stone onto darker, bulgy,slick rock. see how far you can get.
28.) White
Wall Overhangs Right & Left 5.9 / 5.9+ (40ft.)
On the sunny side of the Big Blocks stands some very clean, white colored
rock at the bottom of the face, with a 2ft. overhang 10ft. from the ground.
Follow either the right or left lines through the roof to the easier,
knobby filled faces above.
29.) Riverside
Face 5.5 (40ft.)
START: just left of the white rock and head up the vertical knobby face
with hand cracks.
30) 5.8+
(35ft.)
climb a white face 12' left of "Riverside Face"
31.) Grunge
5.4 (20ft.)
The name says it all. climb? and crawl your way to the top of A wide dirty
crack.
32.) Gemstone
5.8 (25ft.)
Locate the chimney gap which splits the two blocks. START: at a roof with
blocky holds, move to a crack which goes up and left to a crescent-shaped
feature, then straight to the top. (A harder variation goes up and right
at the tip of the crack.)
33) Bundle
Of Sticks 5.9 (25ft.)
This short climb ascends the face using hidden horizontals. This route
is worth a try.
34.) Gypsy
Moth 5.9 (25ft.)
START: 6' to the right of the orange streak, climb up black and white
rock using small pockets and rounded edges.
35.) Carrot
Juice 5.7 (25ft.)
This line ascends directly up the vertical, pocketed orange streak, finishing
just to the right of the gnarled pine at the top edge.
36.) Access
Crack 5.2 (25ft.)
This 20' dihedral is way to the top of the blocks for setting top rope
anchors. It also makes a nice first lead
37.) Sharkfin
5.11- (25ft.)
Climb the more than overhanging arete just left of Access Crack.
37.) BB-Unknown
5.12 (25ft.)
Climb the strenuous face between "Sahrkfin" and the arete.
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