WARNING: Climbing is Potentially Dangerous!

Cooper's Rock Climbs

Notice: We are currently updating this section to include printable maps and more route information. Please help us compile the most accurate information source available by sending us your information. Please send new and existing boulder problem or roped route information to. trails-edge@trails-edge.com

         The purpose of this or any guide is not only to inform visitors about a climbing area; but also share important information regarding safety, ethics and etiquette. Our goal is to provide a consistent, accurate guide for new and old visitors to the park. Regarding route names and grades, this guide has been compiled using an assortment of outdated guides and handouts. The last full guide was produced by Bill Webster called "Gritstone Climbs" circa 1978. Bill's guide provided very good topo maps and route information east from the overlook. His book also supplied information for several of the outlying areas near the park. Most recently Adam Polinski created a series of handouts describing the routes he researched and established. Unfortunately his book "The Incomplete guide to Cooper's Rock" never became a full guidebook. Adam went on to help organize the "Cooper's Rock foundation" which helps preserve and maintain the park. We hope this guide provides climbers with a good resource to get familiar with the area. Currently we are listing information on the more concentrated climbing areas, Sunset Rock, Big Blocks, Roadside Rocks, Upper Rock City, and The Haystack.

        
This guide is only meant as a brief overview of the established climbing available at Cooper's Rock. The areas mentioned here are popular with climbers, bikers, and day hikers; Expect climbing classes and crowds on weekends. There are hundreds of existing and potential routes available throughout the forest. Many of the established problems are of a moderate grade, with a few very difficult problems. Due to the characteristics of the rock the harder problems are usually reachy, thin, and often highballs.

         Placed at the rim of the Cheat River Gorge and nestled in West Virginia’s largest forest is home to some of the most unique rock formations in the East. The “Gritstone” cliffs and boulders of Cooper's Rock offer some of West Virginia’s best bouldering, and possibly some of the best in the Eastern US. Gritstone is a sandstone with uncompromising texture and strength usually found in England. The Gritstone blocks are between 10' and 20' high, offering a wide variety of challenges for all levels. Adventurous climbers could amuse and challenge themselves for years without ever touching a rope.
        The areas mentioned in this section are the most popular and easily accessible climbing areas. Expect climbing classes and crowds on weekends. Many classes come here for top rope lessons because every route at Cooper's rock can be top roped There is beautiful scenery along the easy hiking trail from the parking lots. The area is host to many different day users, families, hikers, and tourists frequent the park.


thin balancing act of
"The Original Gap" 5.9
"The Hood Area"
Recommended Gear
Bouldering:
Crash Pad
Hold brush
Blow hose
Chalk Bag
Climbing shoes
Top Rope Anchors:
30 ft. 20 ft., & 15 ft. slings
Oval & Locking biners
Various trad gear
Ground Cloth or Rope Bag
50m rope
Lead (Trad):
Full Rack w/Tri-Cams
Various sized slings
Quick draws
50m Rope

Plea for Responsibility:
        With the growing popularity of rock climbing, so has the concern about our impact on the environment. With the pressures of an increasing climbing population comes evidence of the frailty of the cliffs. Natural erosion is a fact of life; however the Additional strain climbing has put on the many areas is more apparent. Where greenery flourished, Now paths abound. Piton scaring is evident on many classic climbs, and crag access has become threatened in many states. The greatest impact has been due to thoughtlessness. Climbers are by nature, easy going social individuals. Local crags offer pleasant conversation as well as challenging climbs. There is the occasional gung ho recluse, who threatens the lifestyle with their thoughtlessness. Remember your action effect all of us in the long run. We must abandon complacency and self-serving actions, and make an effort to preserve our natural climbing areas.


Click HERE to download the printable map(45kb).
You will need Acrobat Reader (see link on the right)

Area Information:

4.)Rock City
6.)Hystack Area
7.)Roadside Rocks

8.)Sunset Area

More information
coming soon


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