Roadside Rocks Area

WARNING: Climbing is Potentially Dangerous!

Access:
To get to Roadside Rocks is an easy short hike, located just East of the large parking lot near the overlook (See General Topo Map for park overview). From the park entrance drive about 3 miles on the main road, heading towards the overlook area. Locate the large gravel parking lot which is on both sides of the park road (overflow parking). Park on the left hand lot if possible. The trail begins in the northwest corner of this parking lot (near the Kiosk). Follow the stone trail downhill (away from the main overlook). This trail leads to a few stone steps, at the base of the cliff the trail "T's" and splits either left or right. This is the start of the main base trail.
Recommended Gear
Bouldering:
  • Crash Pad
  • Hold brush
  • Blow hose
  • Chalk Bag
  • Climbing shoes
  • Sense of adventure
    • Top Rope Anchors:
  • 30 ft. 20 ft., & 15 ft. slings
  • Oval & locking biners
  • Various trad gear
  • Ground cloth or rope bag
  • 50m rope
    • Lead (Trad):
  • Full Rack
  • Flexible Cams, & Tri-Cams
  • Various slings
  • Quick draws
  • 50m Rope

    • We have provided a FREE route guide in easy to print format. The guide includes routes, topos, directions, and access issues.

    Dowload Roadside Rocks guide
    HERE
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    Entrance Exit Boulders

    Head down the trail to the steps, at the bottom of the steps you will find the main base trail. Turn right onto this trail and follow for 30 feet. You will come to a rock outcrop on your right. This small (9 ft tall) face has 7 routes on it, offering a good selection of short, easy problems for warming up, or the beginning boulderer.

    1.) Warm Up Problems (V0 - V1)
    Facing the wall, the left side offers the easier problems and they increase in difficulty towards as you move right. The hardest of these problems is located 4 feet around the corner. A nice Traverse can also be done here, starting to the right of the hardest problem and following the horizontal seam (3feet from the top) left along the entire face.

    2.) Bizarro (V2):
    This bizarre shaped slab of rock is just to the right of the Warm-up problems. An awkward start leads to sloped pockets and a tricky top-out.

    The Lazy Faces

    Head down the trail to the steps, at the bottom of the steps you will find the main base trail. Turn left onto this trail and follow it to the first faces on the left. The reason these are called the "Lazy Faces" is because they are so close to the parking lot...good for lazy people like me. 2 separate warm up traverses can be done here, or combine them for one long traverse. A few other possibilities exist here as well.

    3.) Lazier Than Dirt Traverse (V0-):
    Heading Left at the "T" in the trail just past the low roof (on the left) is a long face.Start at the left end of the face and traverse right along the easy holds, move past the free boulder all the way to the split between the faces. 4.0

    4.) Just Plain Lazy Traverse (V0-):
    Just past the split in the faces start at the arete (left of a tree), traverse right again past the tree (around it) to the next split in the faces. **FYI: heading through this split will take you to rotten log corridor**.

    Greenblock
    From the parking lot (near the kiosk) head down the trail to some stone ledges, at the bottom of these ledges you will find the main base trail, turn left onto this trail and. The second boulder on your right will be the Greenblock, at it's left end of this block is a clean face with a classic problem. The backside is also a good warm up and beginner wall.

    5.) Green Block Testpiece (V4):
    A short power problem established by Steve Cater. Start: on an undercling and pull a small edge to a good pocket.

    ** Green Project (V2+):
    Start at the left most arete (nearest the trail). Using the side pull slopy start, head left along a line of small pockets and edges (just below the top edge). Trick foot work is needed, due to the lack of foot holds. Continue left until you reach the finishing hold of "Green Block Testpiece". Note the second or third hand hold can be wet after a rain or in early morning.

    Tendon Repair Face
    Directly uphill from the Butcher Block and right next to the main trail (uphill side) is the Tendon Repair Face. This face is recognizable by it's large titled T shaped crack near the arête.

    6.) Tilted T Crack (5.9)
    The most distinguishing feature on this face. START: at on the Stem part of the “T” go up, then head right following the crack to the top, a fine challenge for novice Trad climbers.

    7.) The Mountaineer's Route (V4/5)
    This highly recommended route ascends the center of the face. START: using a deadpoint move from a shallow, grapefruit-sized pocket to a good jug, follow the shallow pockets and edges to the top. First Ascent info: Carl Samples on top rope in the 80’s. Steve Cater nailed the crux to the jug as a boulder problem. John Sherman made this top rope route into a highball boulder problem.

    8.) Tendon Repair Kit (V2)
    traverse the line of pockets and features across the wall right to left. Small good textured holds.

      * Mere Mortal Linkup
         START:“Tendon Repair Kit” complete it then get on “Tilted T Crack” and follow this to the top.

    9.) Traversity (V0+)
    Just right of Tendon Repair Face is a short, slightly overhanging wall. Start: step up onto the ramp at the arete (right side), hugging the arete, begin traversing the features left, staying just off the deck. Ends on a flat 2 hand sloper hold (10ft up) just left of the tree stump on the ground.

    10.) TRF Un-named A (V2+)
    Start: The same as "Traversity" head straight up following a small concavity, using the shallow pockets. Not real sure about the top out on this one...

    Ceiling Block
    just past the Tendon Repair Face are and next to the trail is "Ceiling Block". One of the largest blocks in the Roadside area, Ceiling Block has two distinct rock qualities. One is filled with horizontal features, rounded cracks, and knobs. The other is steep and featureless, with a large roof and blank arete. To set top ropes, climb the reasonably safe low angled slabby arete on the left side of the knobby face. (bring lots of webbing.

    11.) CB Un-named Traverse (V0+)
    On the side nearest the main trail is a very featured face. Start: near the center near a small alcove, traverse right on good holds 20 feet or so, then head up for the finish.

    12.) CB Un-named B 5.8- (40ft.)
    On the knobby side there locate the obvious rounded hand crack near just right of center. Following the crack from the large block, moving right further up. Bring long webbing or static line for TR setup.

    13.) Bastard's Edge (V3)
    Slap up the arete to the jugs, and traverse off left. Try the sit-down variation to add a number or two to the grade. FA: Tim Ford

    14.) CB Un-named C 5.8 (40ft.)
    Looking at the slabby side of Ceiling Block, with the cliff line at your back. Start: On the right side of the slab, friction climb to the top and exit just right of the roof.

    15.) CB Un-named D 5.10 (40ft.)
    Again looking at the slabby side of Ceiling Block with the cliff line at your back, locate the right most arete. Start: In the corridor between Ceiling Block and the neighboring block. Climb the arete and right face.

    16.) CB Un-named E 5.11- (40ft.)
    Just right of this arete is a blank face, in the corridoor between Ceiling Block and the neighboring block. Start: Climb the arete and right face.

    Rotten Log Corridor

    Directly behind "Tendon Repair Face" and the "Ceiling Block" there are 2 corridors. In order from the trail, the first is the Rotting Log corridor, and the second is Mr. Clean Face corridor. In the Rotten Log corridor you will find a handful of short top rope climbs. Rotting Log Wall is named after the large rotting log at its base

    17.) Easy Slab 5.5 (25ft.)
    A good slab problem right next to the crack, which spits the Rotten Log Wall in to 2 segments. Start: just right of the arete on the slab, climb the path of least resistance to the top, an excellent place for beginners.

    18.) Fallen Angel 5.12a (30ft.)
    Just on the other side of the crack is a very blunt, this classic Gritstone arete offers great friction and little else. Start: at the base of the blunt arete, follow it to the top. NOTE: The start is easier for taller climbers.

    19.) RLC Un-known-F 5.7 (25ft.)
    You can use the same tree for the anchor on this route as on the previous one. Start 8 feet right of the previous climb, at a noticeable foot pocket. Follow the good diagonal edges up and left ending at the tree.

    20.) RLC Un-known-G 5.11 (25ft.)
    Locate the hemlock tree perched at the top edge of this wall. The tree makes an excellent anchor for this route. Start: Climb up on harder moves leading to a left facing flake system. make your way to the tree.

    21.) RLC Un-known-H 5.11 (25ft.)
    a few feet right of the previous route. climb the blank face to the top.

    22.) Tricky Top 5.4 (25ft.)
    The obvious dihedral hand crack. Start at it's base and follow it to the top. The name sake is a the top, Easy moves lead to a tricky top out.

    23.) Blunty 5.8 (35ft.)
    Just left of Rotting Log wall is a peculiar arete with a large blunt slab at its top. Start: just left of the arete on good holds, attain the first ledge on the arete (12 feet up), continue up the arete, and on its right to obtain the roof and headwall above.

      * Blunty Variation 5.7 START: on the right side of the arete using 3 pockets to move up and obtain good horizontal cracks, continue up to the arete to to finish on the headwall above.

    24.) Keyhole 5.9+ - (35ft.)
    Just left of Blunty is an obvious knife blade block (near the top), on its left is a large hole. Start: Below this hole, climbing up and left to the very large horn 10 feet up. Continue up towards the hole. Be careful of the top block (with the hole) it may be unstable.

    Mr. Clean Face Corridor
    The second corridor behind "Ceiling Block", which starts with a sharp arete is the Mr. Clean Face Corridor. The wall with very prominent finger crack leading to the tree is the Mr. Clean Face. Even though it looks like the only line to the top is the crack, this wall has several top rope and boulder problems on it.

    25.)MCF Un-known J 5.10+ (25ft.)
    A fine crimper route, Start: Where a tree leans away from the rock, use a pair of sharp black edges to begin. Move up and right to finish just left of the block at the top.

    26.)Dinkus Brain 5.10+ (25ft.)
    A contrived line ascend the face just right of Mr. Clean, pull the small pockets and edges to the top, staying 1 to 3 feet right of the crack, without using it.

    27.)Mr Clean 5.7 (a.k.a. stump crack) (25ft.)
    Locate the obvious finger crack with a short jog right in it and ending at tree on top. Climb the crack to its top. A protectable lead, and fun beginner climb.

    28.) MCF Un-known K
    A contrived line just left of Mr. Clean, where using the crack is not allowed?!

    29.) MCF Un-known L
    right of the previous climbs locate a triangular scar about 7 feet up. Climb up using slopers to a horizontal crack. Follow the cracks up left to finish at the tree.

    30.) Black Bart V1
    6 feet right of the Blade locate left arching corner edge, climb up following this feature heading towards the small horizontal, then move up and left to finish

    31.) Blade V2+
    Just right of the previous problem. Locate the blade of rock sticking out of the ground. Start: On the blade of rock, head straight to the top.

    32.) Scar V2+
    Just right of the previous problem. Locate a rust colored scar in the rock. Again go straight to the top.

    33.) Arthritis V2
    Locate the left facing lay back (5 ft.up) with a shallow pocket below and horizontal cracks above it. Climb straight up to the top, a deceptively hard problem.

    Butcher Block
    Continuing on the trail past the Greenblock you will see a large block right of the tail, capped with 2 small roofs and horizontal seam running its face (about 5 feet off the ground). This is the Butcher Block, which offers several boulder problems. The backside of this boulder is the walk off, which is usually dirty, and overgrown. The landing is clean and flat, but potentially high. A crash pad is recommended! There are several fairly tall moderate boulder problems and a fun traverse. The top-outs tend to be awkward.

    34.) Robbery (V0 15ft)
    Rumored to be the original problem established on this block. START: near the right side of the block, climb up and left on positive holds, top-out just left of the roof.

    35.) Local Color (V1- 15ft)
    a.k.a. “Mental Mantel”, START: standing below the exit to Robbery, 6 feet farther to left, this is the start of the route. Use the left facing side pull to gain the overhanging horizontals. lead up through the steepest part of this boulder. The top out is the worst part of it...Scary fun.


    Pre Bouldering Zen during a quiet fall morning

    36.) Acromion (V1 15ft.)
    The hardest of problems on this block, START: near the left side of this face, on a thin vertical seam near some shallow pockets. Head up to horizontals and move right to finish on a roof crack just right of the larger roof (near a log)

    37.) The Mad Butcher (V2 35ft)
    This problem traverses the entire face with holds and technical smears leading to small slopers. START: beginning on robbery and heading left on the main horizontal feature. Follow this feature as it rises to its end, then down climb to the shelf at the left side of this block.

    Second Half
    Continuing downhill from the Butcher Block, you will notice the large block (about 50 feet away) which and has a large tree that starts near the base and meets near the top. There is also a very noticeable roof and ledge system near this tree. The backside of this block offers a very wild looking knobby face, good for beginners and novice climbers.

    38.) Street Fighter (V1+ 9ft)
    Start: locate the blunt arete just under the roof and ledge. Climb up this arete to the ledge system on small pockets, edges, and a thin side pull near the ledge. obtain the ledge and clib off to the right (under the large tree).

      * Street Fighter Variation
      START: at the next arete on your left (left of the orange face). climb right on the orange face to meet up with the start of "Street Fighter", finish on Street Fighter.

    Unknown Block
    Just left of the Second Half is another boulder which offers a short overhanging wall, with potential for new routes. This face is sometimes dirty and fragil after a rain, so be careful when attempting routes. I only have information on 1 particular boulder problem located here.

    39.) Unknown (V2+ 9ft)
    Just past the center of the overhanging face locate the slopey vertical crack. About 10 feet right of this crack is a series of small flakes leading to the top. The top is a rounded horn. The top out is probably the toughest part of this climb.