WARNING: Climbing is Potentially Dangerous!

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Cooper's Rock climbing page.

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Notice: We are currently updating this section to include printable maps and more route information. Please help us compile the most accurate information source available by sending us your information. Please send new and existing boulder problem or roped route information to trails-edge@trails-edge.com

Introduction:
Cooper's Rock State Forest is located in Coopers Rock State Forest, with some great scenic vistas, hiking, and adventure. All though the majority of the rocks are only 30 feet tall the main overlook provides a spectacular view of the 1,300 foot deep Cheat River Gorge. The area is host to many different day users both families and groups frequent the park. Besides climbing, white water rafting, hiking, and mountain biking are available for all levels. Cooper's rock is located 15 miles east of Morgantown, WV (home to West Virginia University) where you will find an abundance of supplies and night time activities.
The entrance gate is closed from December 1st to April 1st every year. The area offers bouldering, Top Rope, and Trad climbing. Access is good via an established trail system, all routes can be top roped and generally have good access. For the boulderer there is an abundance of scattered blocks with high friction sandstone. you will find a combination of slabs, arêtes, and faces; containing crimpers, pockets, and slopers. There are also many NON CLIMBING trail users near the lookout so please be courteous to the gawkers. In the past Cooper's rock was closed to climbing, but is open now with some minor restrictions. Lets avoid this from ever happening again, please obey all rules for rock climbing posted at the west end off the lot.


Overlook area is off limits to any form of climbing.

Please obey posted signs

BEWARE:
Watch out for Copperhead snakes. I have seen a few on the trail areas. Remember snakes are cold blooded, and like to baste in the sun on warm rocks. In my excitement to do Greenblock Test piece I almost stepped one...alway keep an eye out for the critters.


Maggie on "Cheese Grater"
a short strenous problem in the outback

Directions
Amenities

Rules & Regulations
Route Guide
Bouldering Guide (PDF 6mg)

Recommended Gear
Bouldering:
Crash Pad
Plastic hold brush
Blow hose, attached to brush
Chalk Bag
Climbing shoes

Top Rope Anchors:

30 ft. 20 ft., & 15 ft. slings
Regular Oval & Locking Carabiners
Various Cams, Nuts, and Hexxes

Lead (Sport & Trad):
Full Rack
Various sized slings
10 Quick draws
50m Rope
Rope bag

click HERE For current weather conditions and the five day weather forecast.

NOTE:
You must sign in before climbing. This can be done across the highway at the rangers station, or at the climber's kiosk. Climbing is prohibited at the overlook, and well posted as such....do not climb there!!!

Season:
The weather is fairly hot in the summer, and cold in winter, the best times are fall and spring when the temperature is mild. Due to the nature of the rock cool, dry conditions are ideal for climbing, making fall the absolute best time of the year to visit.

Guidebooks:
Rick Thompson is rumored to be producing a new guide. This guide was supposed to be released October (99), but has yet to be seen. The previous guide was actually a small hand out by Adam Polinski, apparently this is no longer available either. The handout/advertisement at the concession stand offers some route names, but little else!

Emergency: (Thanks to Mary Swim for updated information)

  • WVU Hospital at (304) 598-4171
  • Monongalia General at (304) 598-1460
  • National Park Service
    (304)465-0508

    Emergency Only Call 911

Rock Climbing: Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland


Rock Climbing
Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland

By Eric Horst.
This book cverts over 1,200 routes in 23 different areas, form popular top ropes to classic multi pitches.

Buy this book

Since there is not much out there in the line of guides we have compled information and created an online Route Guide for some of the more popular areas.

Miscellaneous:
Morgantown has a municipal airport. USAir offers shuttle flights to and from both Pittsburgh and Washington DC about 10 times a day. There are also chartered and scheduled bus routes to and from Morgantown. Morgantown's Approximate Population : 40,000 - WVU's Approximate Student Population : 20,000

 


Other nearby climbing
New River Gorge | Summersville

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