Kevin Bauman Photography

WARNING: Climbing is Potentially Dangerous!
Haystack Area
UPDATE:
I was just informed via e-mail that the Haystack Block has slid downhill a little further making it unsafe for climbing. The lower bolts have been cut to discourage future climbing on this block...The inevitable sliding of this block is more proof that natural erosion is a big part of our sport. more evidence was the Raven's Rock rock slide a few years ago. It ia always wise to keep this in mind when climbing on what seems to be sketchy rocks or features. THe sad truth is rocks do break, move and tumble. Motorcycle Rocks and Greenback Wall are still okay to climb.

With this said the following is offered only as historical record and not intended a climbing guid anymore. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT HAYSTACK BLOCK.


Between Roadside and Rock City areas lies a collection of routes on a few odd blocks. This area is known as the "Haystack Area" because Haystack Block is very distinguishable. Within this area lies the Greenback wall, Motorcycle, and of course Haystack Block. Haystack is one of the only blocks with sport routes on it, once you see the lack of features on this face you'll understand why. These 2 sport routes were established in the 70's, and the bolts were re-placed in the early 90's.

Access:

The trail to Haystack is fairly easy to find, this area is located North of the overlook and down hill click to view MAP. Remember you must sign the clipboard at the superintendent's office on the North side of the highway before climbing. There is also a clipboard located at the kiosk in the overflow parking lot.
Click HERE to download a printable Haystack area guide(51kb). You will need Acrobat Reader to view

Directions
Once inside the park drive about 3 miles (South) on the main park road, heading towards the overlook area. Park in the first large parking lot on the left (there is a matching one on the right), Follow the trail in in the Southeast corner of this parking lot (opposite end from the kiosk). It will take you to a paved trail towards the overlook, follow the paved trail a short distance till you see a faint trail on the left, leading down hill. Take this trail down hill, down a little scramble, and you will be at the base of the overlook (it is on your right). continue down and left this is where you will find Greenback Wall (on the left). Continue down hill another 100 yards, passing motorcycle rocks to find Haystack Block.

Recommended Gear
Bouldering:
  • Crash Pad
  • Hold brush
  • Blow hose
  • Chalk Bag
  • Climbing shoes
    • Top Rope Anchors:
  • 10 ft. to 15 ft. Webbing slings
  • Regular Oval & Locking biners
  • Quick Draws
  • 50m rope
  • Ground Cloth or Rope Bag
    • Lead (Sport or Trad):
  • Medium Trad Rack
  • Various sized slings
  • 8-10 Quick draws 
  • 50m Rope
  • Ground Cloth or Rope Bag
    • Route Descriptions:

    Greenback Wall
    Greenback Wall Routes

    Greenback Wall is the first wall you will come to on the trail downhill, it is on you left and offers a few decent top rope routes. The wall is distinguishable by the large left facing flake which leads to a rhododendron filled ledge (20-25ft up), this crack is the route "Greenback". the other routes are in sequence to the right of this.
    1.) Greenback 5.6 (40ft.)
    The left-most climb on this wall Start: at the base of the left-facing flake, follow this nice crack to the rhododendron filled ledge above. Continue up on rounded holds to the top. This route tends to get dirtier at the top.
    2.) Unnamed-A 5.11 (40ft.)
    This rock here is similar to the New River with its edgy holds, a contrast to the majority of sloped rock throughout Cooper's. Start: near the center of the wall the follow a flake system that angles slightly to the right to a ledge / roof. From here, move right, then up onto the upper wall at the diagonal flake. Head Up and left towards a large ear-like flake just below the top to finish just above it.
    3.) Unnamed B 5.10a/b (35ft.)
    Farther right on the same wall is a shorter route with similar rock to the previous route. Start: Locate the roof with a thin, rusted old bolt stub just above it. Climb easily up to the roof, then use follow right-facing flakes to pull up and over, head to the top to finish.

    Motorcycle Rocks

    Motorcycle Rocks are 2 boulders 50-60 yards down hill from Greenback Wall (between Greenback Wall and Haystack Block). These 2 boulders offer a handful of short boulder problems. The most unique problem at Cooper's can be found here also. According to an old guidebook the main attraction was to run up the curved face the larger boulder and jump across the gap to the smaller one. Descriptions below start with the upper boulder.

    Upper Boulder: (Larger of the 2)
    The upper boulder features a unique pocketed roof, this side of the boulder offers 3 routes, while the hardest problem here is located on the opposite side. BEWARE the pockets tend to be fragile, the farther right you go. the landing is a angled and sometimes slippery from dead leaves.


    Mike on "Zygot"

    5.) Metro V0
    another short problem on the left (uphill) end of the pocketed face, Start: below the left end of the pocketed roof, move up to the top on diagonal features, getting over the lip may be the hardest part of the climb.
    6.) Subway V0
    Yet another short problem on the left (uphill) end of the pocketed face, Start: below the left end of the pocketed roof, and right of Metro move up to the top on an obvious diagonal feature, pull the lip to finish.
    7.) Up and Over V1+
    The farthest right problem on the pocketed face. This problem is more difficult and of course more committing then the previous routes. Start: near the right end of the pocketed face (at its highest point) climb up the ramp and move up to the roof, then UP & OVER
    8.) Zygot V1+/V2
    On the opposite side of this boulder (near the trail) is a bulging slopy face with a few pockets and flakes on it. Start: locate the Grapefruit sized pocket in the middle of this face (7ft up) power up off this good hold to a large sloper on the right, then try to finish the slabby top out.

    Lower Boulder: (Smaller boulder)
    9.) Sprocket V2
    Start: the lower nose of the boulder (towards Haystack Block), ascend the pockets heading up and right.

    Haystack's Slab Face
    Haystack Block

    UPDATE:
    I was just informed via e-mail that the Haystack Block has slid downhill a little further making it unsafe for climbing. The lower bolts have been cut to discourage future climbing on this block...The inevitable sliding of this block is more proof that natural erosion is a big part of our sport. more evidence was the Raven's Rock rock slide a few years ago. It ia always wise to keep this in mind when climbing on what seems to be sketchy rocks or features. THe sad truth is rocks do break, move and tumble. Motorcycle Rocks and Greenback Wall are still okay to climb.

    With this said the following is offered only as historical record and not intended a climbing guid anymore. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT HAYSTACK BLOCK.


            100 yards downhill from Greenback Wall rests Haystack Block one the most unique blocks found at Cooper’s Rock. Haystack Block rests at a peculiar yet striking angle, which climbers may appreciate, The top sits above the surrounding trees, providing an exceptional view of the Cheat River Gorge. There are several top rope options from 5.0 to 5.10 to enjoy, and 2 sport routes both 5.10. This block has obviously provided years of entertainment, since there are some carvings at the top which date back to 1922. Just left of slab is an overhanging face with the words "Ted and Bettie 75" painted at the base. There are remnants of and old aid bolt ladder above Ted’s name. The backside of this rock is a field of knobs and protrusions, a complete opposite from featureless friction face on the reverse side. The bolts were re-placed in the early 90's

    10.) The Standard Route 5.2 R/X, (50')
    Many climbers and non-climbers find there way up this route in order to hang out at the top, Then realize the first rule of bouldering. NEVER CLIMB UP, UNLESS YOU KNOW YOU CAN CLIMB DOWN! START: Climb onto easy rock in the lower right-hand side of the uphill face. Head up and right on the pocketed slab until you reach the arete, Follow the low angle arete to the chain anchors at the summit.

      * Standard Direct 5.8 (50’)
      Start: to the right of the std. Route, this involves a leap from teh boulders below the arete to reach the opening holds. Once you have these holds, move right a few feet and pull the roof to the slab above, finish by using the Standard Route to the summit.

    11.) Needle on the Haystack 5.9+ (50ft.)
    This is a top rope route. Start: Climb the friction slab face between The Standard Route and Rebolting Development joining Rebolting Development near the top.

      * Needle on the Haystack easier variation 5.8+ (50’)
      This variation begins where the climb gets to its harder friction section, Begin traversing left and up, heading for the second bolt on Rebolting Development. Continue past the bolt to the obvious diagonal crack. Then go right, following the crack, and rejoin Rebolting at the third bolt
    12.) Rebolting Development 5.10b (4 bolts, chains, 50ft.)
    START: in the lower right-hand side of the uphill face, follow the line of bolts directly up the middle of this face on fabulous textured stone to the summit.

    13.) Unknown 5.10b (4 bolts chains - 50ft.)
    START:     follow the left-hand line of bolts, head towards the summit, there is a rest midway up and the rock is again incredible quality.

    14.) Cheat Crack 5.5 (65ft.)
    START: at the lowest point of the backside and winds up through the bizarre landscape to the top. Numerous variations exist, including an alternate start on the left. This unique route might just have the best exposure of any route at Coopers Rock.